Bishkek is a lot nicer to spend time in than Almaty seemed, it's still wise not to wander around at dark on your own, and it can be hard to elicit a pleasant response from staring locals. I didn't feel any overture of hostility as I wandered around the city during the day though. In fact a number of times I shared a few moments chatting to curious locals. One had me thinking he was trying to pick me up, until it became clear he was only using me to practice his English. Going to a bar/disco was more of an ordeal, though a funny one. At one point a friendly Kazak, there for a wedding celebration, literally picked me up bodily and carried me onto the dance floor. Bless him, he was made up that a few westerners were there to join in the celebrations. His sister was marrying a Kyrg, so the party was very mixed. when we left they were all still very spirited but amiable; after all there isn't any history of enmity between the two nationalities. (Photo: Grubby railway yard scene - Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan)
I probably spent a while longer than necessary, or desired, in Bishkek. I'd planned on three nights and spent an extra one, I couldn't face getting up at 5 am for a train to Balykchy, so I put off my departure for anther day. Reading somewhere that the train ride from Bishkek to Balykchy was spectacular, it became a bit of an obsession. At first no locals could even tell me where the train station was, claiming there were not trains from Bishkek. After insisting there was, pointing out there was one to Balykchy, they'd instantly agree. Ah yes, there is the one to Balykchy, but it much slower than the bus, so why use it? The answer to that was simple, it's the quality of life that is important. Which is probably why my time spent in the Kyrgyz capital has been appreciated; the people I met were a pleasure to be with. They were other travellers, others who made some effort to heighten their experiences while on their jaunts. The majority were going to greater lengths by travelling overland, by a great variety of methods. Central Asia isn't a place for the casual tourist, few people come for only a few weeks, and even fewer expect life to be served on a plate to them. (Photo: One man and his dog, pretending to ignore his harem - Nr. Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan)
The rewards can be colossal though, especially if you like your landscape on the large side. Huge open plains, magnificent mountains and oh, such beautiful blue skies. Personally I don't give a damn what the people are like when faced with such wondrous natural phenomenon. As long as they aren't trying to slit my throat, I can ignore it all. I live for those moments when facing the unadulterated delights of nature, to be at one with the elements, to savour the flavour of the world without the interference of human beings. God I miss my bike though, the freedom to go where I want, when I choose. How wonderful it is to stop at my own whim, snap to my heart's content, have a pee, a cigarette, travel at my own pace, reliant on no-one else. I crave for that style of transport, that freedom. And every time I run into a fellow motorcyclist it hurts, I pine for the freedom of the road. As I travel by bus or train every scene is judged from a biker's eye view. What joy it would induce riding through this valley, how marvellously twisty this mountain pass is, how amazing it would be to crank it round those bends. In all honesty you can stuff backpacking, give me a two wheels, give me the open road, give me freedom. (Photo: Folding hills and snowy peaks- Nr. Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan)
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the lands I've passed through, I adore the people I've met. And let's be honest, I'm forced to meet so many more when backpacking; but I only truly interact with a few of them. On a bike, when I do interact, it's up close, more personal, or so it seems. Even back packing though I have an advantage, I'm a freak, at least in this part of the world. It attracts attention; with dreads and tattoos I can't pass unnoticed, wherever I go. Putting it into perspective it's similar to being on my bike, which also draws attention, in fact it cries, "LOOK AT ME". If ever I wanted to travel anonymously I'd be doomed from the very start, but that isn't the way I lead my life, especially not when abroad. Anti-social I am not, my life has revolved around others, meeting people and sharing our differences. I love wowing the natives (how patronising that expression is), I thrive on making an impression. If asked what effect I want to have on the lives of those I meet on my travels, I'd have to say I want to open their minds. I'd like for others to recognise the world as a huge place, that it's there for us all, a playground to explore and have fun in. (Photo: Woah cowboy! - Towards Balykchy, Kyrgyzstan)
And how quick this new land has captured my heart, once escaping the less hospitable city, the people and countryside have people have touched my soul. A country tucked into the depths of the mountains, where natural beauty abounds, it's drawn me in, begged for a deeper appreciation. How glad I am to have gone beyond the city environs. For now, in Karakol, I stay on the outskirts of town, beyond the bustle of city life. I yearn to explore further what the country has to offer, yet must keep moving, must push on for a pre-arranged appointment. I must reach Kashgar within ten days, to travel through Tibet. I've started to drag my feet, reluctant to leave the promise of Kyrgyzstan behind. Maybe my time will come, I imagine I could easily return. Could this be the land where I am destined to lose myself? Ignore the city, shake loose the urban confines, there is something special about the people here. They are warm and welcoming, cheered by my presence, in only a couple of days I've found myself enchanted. (Photo: Traditional headgear on a far from traditional guy - Balykchy, Kyrgyzstan)
I can ignore the capital, the impersonal attitude of city folk, of rip-off taxi drivers. There is so much more the place has to offer, and I'm so sorry my time here is so limited. The outskirts of town feels like a different world altogether, it's more like a quiet village environment. Though holed up most the day, my limited excursions from the guesthouse have been filled with happy smiling faces. Hands crossing hearts shows the welcome extended, the depth of feeling. I've muddled through without conversing, but how I wish I could. Mongolia failed to wrench me away into the wilderness on horseback, now I feel distraught I haven't the time to indulge that dream here. Before leaving home I vowed to explore where I might return for a horse bound adventure, now I've found the place. By the time I finish Tibet it will be too late before winter, I don't intend tackling temperatures of up to -25 degrees C. But I don't think I can ignore this place, I hope this feeling remains, I hope I do return. (Photo: Where's my bike, this road should be ridden - Nr. Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan)
Don't ask me what has suddenly happened, I've no idea. Until this evening Kyrgyzstan didn't beckon so strongly, I hope it isn't just a drunken reverie. Now I'm in danger of hanging around too long, pushing the time restrictions to their limits. But I'm not stupid, at last I've escaped the tourist trail, finally I've tasted the country beyond the transit points of cities. Maybe the pull to do so wasn't as strong before, maybe it is simply the land I now find myself in. It's magical, with mountains streaked with snow, glistening lakes and a delightfully simple lifestyle. I want more of it, whereas before, in all the areas I've been through in the last month, they've failed to enthral me. Have I been blinkered to the beauty in front my own eyes? I don't think so, it's just that nowhere has had this effect until now. The scenery has forced me to seek more solitude, the people have captivated me. This is an awesome place, please stay away from it, it's my dream, I don't want foreign tourism to spoil it. (Photo: Lakeside delight - Balykchy to Karakol, Kyrgyzstan)
In reality I don't even know what will happen tomorrow, let alone in a few months time. But so far, if there is a place to come back to, this is it. If I'm to return somewhere for an adventure on horseback, I think I've found it. Don't hold me to this, it isn't a plan, because plans change. But nestled amongst soaring peaks, laying tranquil in alpine pastures, Kyrgyzstan is captivating. It's small enough for in depth discovery, personal enough for untold hospitality, and so beautiful it can't fail to take the breath away. Take my word for it, you won't like it; anyone would have to be insane to spend time here. Fly in, take a tour and bugger off again; leave the loonies to lose their minds in the wilderness. The country could do with a bit more tourism, so don't avoid it, just don't delve too deep! It's mine, all mine! (Photo: Outrageous statuary - Karakol, Kyrgyzstan)
Bishkek is a lot nicer to spend time in than Almaty seemed, it's still wise not to wander around at dark on your own, and it can be hard to elicit a pleasant response from staring locals. I didn't feel any overture of hostility as I wandered around the city during the day though. In fact a number of times I shared a few moments chatting to curious locals. One had me thinking he was trying to pick me up, until it became clear he was only using me to practice his English. Going to a bar/disco was more of an ordeal, though a funny one. At one point a friendly Kazak, there for a wedding celebration, literally picked me up bodily and carried me onto the dance floor. Bless him, he was made up that a few westerners were there to join in the celebrations. His sister was marrying a Kyrg, so the party was very mixed. when we left they were all still very spirited but amiable; after all there isn't any history of enmity between the two nationalities. (Photo: Grubby railway yard scene - Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan)
I probably spent a while longer than necessary, or desired, in Bishkek. I'd planned on three nights and spent an extra one, I couldn't face getting up at 5 am for a train to Balykchy, so I put off my departure for anther day. Reading somewhere that the train ride from Bishkek to Balykchy was spectacular, it became a bit of an obsession. At first no locals could even tell me where the train station was, claiming there were not trains from Bishkek. After insisting there was, pointing out there was one to Balykchy, they'd instantly agree. Ah yes, there is the one to Balykchy, but it much slower than the bus, so why use it? The answer to that was simple, it's the quality of life that is important. Which is probably why my time spent in the Kyrgyz capital has been appreciated; the people I met were a pleasure to be with. They were other travellers, others who made some effort to heighten their experiences while on their jaunts. The majority were going to greater lengths by travelling overland, by a great variety of methods. Central Asia isn't a place for the casual tourist, few people come for only a few weeks, and even fewer expect life to be served on a plate to them. (Photo: One man and his dog, pretending to ignore his harem - Nr. Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan)
The rewards can be colossal though, especially if you like your landscape on the large side. Huge open plains, magnificent mountains and oh, such beautiful blue skies. Personally I don't give a damn what the people are like when faced with such wondrous natural phenomenon. As long as they aren't trying to slit my throat, I can ignore it all. I live for those moments when facing the unadulterated delights of nature, to be at one with the elements, to savour the flavour of the world without the interference of human beings. God I miss my bike though, the freedom to go where I want, when I choose. How wonderful it is to stop at my own whim, snap to my heart's content, have a pee, a cigarette, travel at my own pace, reliant on no-one else. I crave for that style of transport, that freedom. And every time I run into a fellow motorcyclist it hurts, I pine for the freedom of the road. As I travel by bus or train every scene is judged from a biker's eye view. What joy it would induce riding through this valley, how marvellously twisty this mountain pass is, how amazing it would be to crank it round those bends. In all honesty you can stuff backpacking, give me a two wheels, give me the open road, give me freedom. (Photo: Folding hills and snowy peaks- Nr. Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan)
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the lands I've passed through, I adore the people I've met. And let's be honest, I'm forced to meet so many more when backpacking; but I only truly interact with a few of them. On a bike, when I do interact, it's up close, more personal, or so it seems. Even back packing though I have an advantage, I'm a freak, at least in this part of the world. It attracts attention; with dreads and tattoos I can't pass unnoticed, wherever I go. Putting it into perspective it's similar to being on my bike, which also draws attention, in fact it cries, "LOOK AT ME". If ever I wanted to travel anonymously I'd be doomed from the very start, but that isn't the way I lead my life, especially not when abroad. Anti-social I am not, my life has revolved around others, meeting people and sharing our differences. I love wowing the natives (how patronising that expression is), I thrive on making an impression. If asked what effect I want to have on the lives of those I meet on my travels, I'd have to say I want to open their minds. I'd like for others to recognise the world as a huge place, that it's there for us all, a playground to explore and have fun in. (Photo: Woah cowboy! - Towards Balykchy, Kyrgyzstan)
And how quick this new land has captured my heart, once escaping the less hospitable city, the people and countryside have people have touched my soul. A country tucked into the depths of the mountains, where natural beauty abounds, it's drawn me in, begged for a deeper appreciation. How glad I am to have gone beyond the city environs. For now, in Karakol, I stay on the outskirts of town, beyond the bustle of city life. I yearn to explore further what the country has to offer, yet must keep moving, must push on for a pre-arranged appointment. I must reach Kashgar within ten days, to travel through Tibet. I've started to drag my feet, reluctant to leave the promise of Kyrgyzstan behind. Maybe my time will come, I imagine I could easily return. Could this be the land where I am destined to lose myself? Ignore the city, shake loose the urban confines, there is something special about the people here. They are warm and welcoming, cheered by my presence, in only a couple of days I've found myself enchanted. (Photo: Traditional headgear on a far from traditional guy - Balykchy, Kyrgyzstan)
I can ignore the capital, the impersonal attitude of city folk, of rip-off taxi drivers. There is so much more the place has to offer, and I'm so sorry my time here is so limited. The outskirts of town feels like a different world altogether, it's more like a quiet village environment. Though holed up most the day, my limited excursions from the guesthouse have been filled with happy smiling faces. Hands crossing hearts shows the welcome extended, the depth of feeling. I've muddled through without conversing, but how I wish I could. Mongolia failed to wrench me away into the wilderness on horseback, now I feel distraught I haven't the time to indulge that dream here. Before leaving home I vowed to explore where I might return for a horse bound adventure, now I've found the place. By the time I finish Tibet it will be too late before winter, I don't intend tackling temperatures of up to -25 degrees C. But I don't think I can ignore this place, I hope this feeling remains, I hope I do return. (Photo: Where's my bike, this road should be ridden - Nr. Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan)
Don't ask me what has suddenly happened, I've no idea. Until this evening Kyrgyzstan didn't beckon so strongly, I hope it isn't just a drunken reverie. Now I'm in danger of hanging around too long, pushing the time restrictions to their limits. But I'm not stupid, at last I've escaped the tourist trail, finally I've tasted the country beyond the transit points of cities. Maybe the pull to do so wasn't as strong before, maybe it is simply the land I now find myself in. It's magical, with mountains streaked with snow, glistening lakes and a delightfully simple lifestyle. I want more of it, whereas before, in all the areas I've been through in the last month, they've failed to enthral me. Have I been blinkered to the beauty in front my own eyes? I don't think so, it's just that nowhere has had this effect until now. The scenery has forced me to seek more solitude, the people have captivated me. This is an awesome place, please stay away from it, it's my dream, I don't want foreign tourism to spoil it. (Photo: Lakeside delight - Balykchy to Karakol, Kyrgyzstan)
In reality I don't even know what will happen tomorrow, let alone in a few months time. But so far, if there is a place to come back to, this is it. If I'm to return somewhere for an adventure on horseback, I think I've found it. Don't hold me to this, it isn't a plan, because plans change. But nestled amongst soaring peaks, laying tranquil in alpine pastures, Kyrgyzstan is captivating. It's small enough for in depth discovery, personal enough for untold hospitality, and so beautiful it can't fail to take the breath away. Take my word for it, you won't like it; anyone would have to be insane to spend time here. Fly in, take a tour and bugger off again; leave the loonies to lose their minds in the wilderness. The country could do with a bit more tourism, so don't avoid it, just don't delve too deep! It's mine, all mine! (Photo: Outrageous statuary - Karakol, Kyrgyzstan)
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