A hunting we will go!

Let me make one thing perfectly clear, I don't agree with hunting as a sport, bloodsports make my blood curdle. So why is it I found myself enchanted by the idea of going out, on horseback, to go hunting with an eagle? It beats me! I need to put this into perspective, for my own peace of mind. I've nothing against hunting to feed yourself, nothing against an animal hunting for it's own food; whether that animal is domesticated or not. So I'm hovering over a very fine line here, the commercial use of an eagle to bring in tourist dollars raises enough questions on its own, my concern rests entirely on the subject of killing for fun rather than necessity. I can't speak for the eagle hunter himself, but for me the hunt wasn't to see an eagle kill, it was to see it hunt. The fact is I'm not squeamish, I think natural hunters should be able to follow their instincts to procure their food. But apart from all this philosophical claptrap, have you ever been close to a natural predator. Make no mistake about it, an eagle is awesome, the feeling of power immense, they demand total respect. (Photo: Heading toward the Tian Shan - Issyk-Kul lake, Kyrgyzstan)

Checking up on what to expect on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul, I came across the information of a guy at Kadhji-Sai would would take out parties into the mountains to watch him hunt with his eagle. It had always been my intention to get at least a short horse ride in while travelling through Kyrgyzstan, to do it in the company of an eagle really captured my imagination. It gave me good reason to stagger my journey around the lake, an excuse to actually circumnavigate the lake rather than take the quick and easy way back. I couldn't be arsed with the quick and easy way, I wanted to experience more of what this country had to offer. Ishenbek's home and hunting foray took me off the busier tourist trail, it got me in the mood for delving into the less frequented parts of Kyrgyzstan. (Photo: Off the beaten track, the Tian Shan mountains - Issyk-Kul lake, Kyrgyzstan)

My headspace is fine, I don't need the presence of others to feel content, but a bit of company can be appreciated; it is nice to communicate after all. But when it really boiled down to it, I fancied going out with just the eagle, Ishenbek and me, I was prepared to pay for the privilege too. A young lass from HongKong joined me in the minibus from Karakol, she too was enthusiastic about seeing the eagle. Being short of time it was only her intention to hit and run, see a quick demonstration before leaving again for Bishkek. I was relieved, as I said, I didn't necessarily want to share the experience. It was bad enough that she slid into my window seat when we climbed into the van, but hell it was her birthday, a touch of generosity is good for the soul. It did bring home my reasons for travelling so much on my own though. Arriving at Kadhji-Sai I parted company with her (shame I don't recall her name), simply because I didn't want to hurry up to Ishenbek's, I wasn't keen about jumping on someone else's bandwagon. As it happened we met again at the guesthouse, she appreciated a quick demonstration in the hills behind while I relaxed, then she buggered off as I settled in. And so late that night, as I dozed with my headphones on, a persistent knocking on the door brought me back to reality. Another couple of guests had arrived, I wasn't to have a dorm to myself after all. (Photo: Looking for prey - Tian Shan mountain range, Kyrgyzstan)

Nor was I to have my own personal eagle hunt, damn!! For once though it wasn't too intrusive sharing a special experience, the two guys were a pleasure to be with. Their appreciation of the quiet life was equal to my own, their delight in keeping nature natural comparable too. I wasn't the only one running to pick up plastic bags blowing in the wind, in fact with someone else, younger and fitter, I allowed him the moral pleasure of catching the offending items. It was strange, I was the more experienced horseman, I was the one able to pass on tidbits of advice on handling the horses. Nothing essential, but how to use reins and legs to reinforce commands, direction. It also gave me an advantage when first meeting the horses, I avoided the sorriest looking horse, who did indeed prove to be constantly lagging behind whilst climbing into the mountains. It was a long day and by the end of it both horses and riders were drained. Way before we actually descended I'd considered making my own way back, my horse was stumbling, his choice of path verged on the suicidal at times, I was having to be more forceful every minute. I could see the farm where we'd started from, my right knee and ankle were giving me grief, I'd had enough. When I realised I wasn't the only one I was relieved, funnily enough it was the bag of bones who proved to have the greatest stamina at the end. (Photo: Looking for prey - Tian Shan mountain range, Kyrgyzstan)

The ride was long and arduous, but worth every minute. Looping round through the mountains provided us with stupendous views, the experience was exceptional. Even the drive to our starting point was gobsmacking, heading ever closer to the ragged line of snowcapped peaks. Our route lead us across ever narrower, rougher tracks, until finally following barely discernible tyre tracks to a tiny farmyard with a host of Salukis racing around, excited at our arrival. These weren't the glossy, groomed breed of Saluki we see at home, they were true hunting dogs, keen to get into the hills and root out prey. As it happened only one rabbit broke cover all day, the eagle got to fly free only once. But that failed to detract from our pleasure, just being in the company of such a beast was special, and what a beast! Ishenbek obviously got desperate towards the end, wanting to give us our moneys worth. Time and again we waited from high vantage points while the dog scoured the broken hillside for prey. But it was all to no avail, nothing broke cover, no matter how hard our noble eagle hunter tried. None of us were complaining though, we enjoyed ever minute of it. From our cups of fermented mare's milk at the beginning, to the bottle of vodka we shared for lunch we enjoyed our host's hospitality. (Photo: One man and his eagle - Tian Shan mountain range, Kyrgyzstan)

Finally our weary mounts carried us back to the homestead, where we interrupted a lively celebration. What the occasion was we never quite understood, it was clearly more of a celebration for some though. An aggressive drunk confronted us as we dismounted, I took an instant dislike to him. Rather than dispel any tension I displayed my displeasure with the fool, he failed to enamour me with his actions suggesting I looked like a woman, that I resembled an object for male sexual gratification. I guess the hard stares I directed his way didn't help, he threatened to slit my throat, which was foolish of him. More foolish was my blatant challenge to his threats, my adverse reaction when he laid his hands on me. It got close, but I wasn't about to back down. His hostility went as far as pushing his fist up to the face of one of the Israeli guys, I wouldn't have stood for that. I can only admire their refusal to be antagonised, trying their best to calm him down. I think the situation was only dispelled by an invite for us to join the celebrants inside. I'm not sure if the comment made there was based on what happened outside. One of the older local men told my two fellow tourists they were small men, and that I was a big man. I don't fully understand this, I can only think it was due to my refusal to tolerate the threats and actions of the drunken fool. (Photo: My moment of glory - Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan)

In many ways I was ashamed of my behaviour, I should exhibit more self control. But I maintain that no-one should be able to act with such hostility without being shown it is undesirable. Why should I put up with such idiots? It may be a better man who doesn't allow himself to be provoked, but not everyone sees it that way. If a person doesn't understand the power of inaction, it's wasted on them. Live by the sword, die by the sword!