Goodbye Stan!

Kyrgyzstan has for me been the highlight of the trip so far, the landscape is truly wondrous, the people generally a pleasure to be amongst. It never proved an easy country to travel through, transport is difficult and fraught with delays. That was largely due to the route I decided to take, but that route was superb for the terrain and experience it presented. In many ways the final few days were the least impressionable, but that was only due to a small number of people. Osh and Jalalabad are different than other areas of the country, but I like to think it isn't due to the heavy Uzbek influence. As a people I had no problems with them, I can only put the negative aspects down to the existing tensions in the south of the country. With a population that's 40% Uzbek there are too many of them for the authorities to ignore, yet they still try to nullify their presence. (Photo: The correct size for riding a donkey - Outskirts of Osh, Kyrgyzstan)

Common opinion is that the Kyrgyzstan Uzbeks wish to escape the harsh regime of the clerical control exerted within their own country. From my understanding not many of them have recently migrated at all, so if there has been any move away from Uzbekistan it's a historic one. One thing is for certain, they are more devoutly Muslim than the Kyrgs, which is easily seen in the different dress codes. Uzbek women wear head coverings, trousers and loose fitting chemise. It's a far cry from a Burkha, they're made of light material and colourful patterns are favoured. They may well cover all the body but do nothing to mask the figure beneath. Many are so thin the outline of their curves are plain to see when silhouetted by the light, and it doesn't need a particularly bright light either. Their features are not as Asiatic and most Kyrgs, and their skin is of a fairer complexion. For the guys, skull caps are the norm, as opposed to the embroidered felt caps the Kyrgs are often adorned in. Again their features belong more the the middle east regions than Central Asia, transport them to any of the Arab nations and you couldn't tell them apart. Personally I don't care how people dress or what religion they practice, I'm only concerned with the manner in which they treat me and their fellow human beings. (Photo: Dropping into fertile lands - Ferghana valley, Kyrgyzstan)

Once leaving the hinterland of this gorgeous mountainous heaven the world seems to open up into a fertile green wonderland. If there is one thing Kyrgyzstan is not short of it's water. They don't need to invest in expensive systems to deliver it where it's most needed, it courses everywhere through the entire country. In fact they don't tend to have much at all in the way of pipework, the majority of households do not have running water, unless it's in a channel running past their property. Nor do they have indoor toilets, not even in most houses in the city. An outhouse stands in the yard, or a pit exists within one room of the courtyard. Obviously in the rural areas tiny huts are set aside from every abode. For the nomads this is as simple as a windbreak, their yurts may be filthy and threadbare compared to those of the Mongolians, but at least they don't just squat in the open. In all honesty the stench takes a bit of getting used to, but that's the same for a great portion of countries in the world. It saves effluent escaping into the waterways and causing environmental problems. Each household's responsible for it's own sewage, it never amasses to the extent of being a problem like in the western world. (Photo: Riding rough through the valley - Ferghana valley, Kyrgyzstan)

However much I've appreciated the natural world contained within Kyrgyzstan's borders I was looking forward to crossing back into China. Not only would the food be better but the Chinese tend to display less animosity, they may stare at weird foreigners with dreads and tattoos, but they don't point them out and break into uncontrollable laughter. This was all to frequent in Osh, it got to the point I was ready to explode, and that's the point at which it's time to move on. I was on a schedule anyway, my Tibetan trip was due to begin in Kashgar on 26th August. Going to Osh was simply to enable me to do the overland crossing into China with the minimum of fuss. I even booked a more expensive form of transport to save traipsing all over the city in search of the best deal, the place was recommended by Lonely Planet as a professionally run agent.So I paid top dollar for a 4wd to take me to the border, which included an overnight stay for me and the driver at Sary Tash. The Agency has a yurt camp at this village, a last stop in comfort before the rigours of a month's camping.Except it wasn't like that at all. Munduz Travel turned out to be unreliable and deceitful, which made my final experience in Kyrgyzstan an unpleasant one, one I will try and resist allowing to taint my view of the place. Actually I felt sorry for the driver, who I believe footed the bill for our stay at the non-existent yurt camp. It in fact two yurts in a back yard, one to eat in and another which was taken by another group. I couldn't believe how dilapidated it appeared when we arrived, and was even more perplexed when asked to pay for food and accommodation. I refuse, explaining this had been include in the price. The trouble was, when phoning the agent, they claimed I'd misunderstood; how I could have possibly thought an extra $50 for the overnight stay was only for the driver's food and bed is beyond me. It caused a very difficult situation, which I was about to buy my way out of. So beware, even when ensuring of what you're getting for your money, it isn't always enough. (Photos: Mountain border with Tajikistan - Kyrgyzstan)

But once more the scenery to Sary Tash and beyond was staggeringly beautiful. It still amazes how a country of intense heat and severe weather can be so fertile, no wonder the nomadic way of life still thrives. Whichever way you care to look there are bare and barren hills, suggesting a bleak, inhospitable land. But the grazing is rich and profuse, the animals healthy and plentiful. Vast areas are inaccessible, whole mountain chains cut off arid wastelands as well as green velveteen hills. A lot of grain is grown further south, alongside a flourishing trade in Sunflowers. From my observation though it is animal husbandry that keeps the majority of the country from starving. Unfortunately it also makes for a diet largely restricted various forms of mutton, those fat-tailed sheep have a lot to answer for. (Photos: Mountain border with Tajikistan - Kyrgyzstan)

And so over the high plains I went, in my personal 4x4, like a high roller in his flash cruiser, lording it over the peasants perched atop their poor petite donkeys. A tiny animal, with full grown human astride, can be seen pulling a heavily loaded cart. For some reason in the south it's donkeys they ride more commonly, maybe they see the horses as too valuable. It breaks my heart to see these cute little beasts of burden hauling around so much, they're the poor cousin of the horse, they get little regard in any way but as an unprotesting object of toil. Not only here I've seen it wherever I go, loaded to the gunwales they are goaded and prodded as they struggle with immense loads. I think that in proportion they carry heavier loads than any other beast of burden, surely they're the hardiest of such animals. No wonder they never seem to run, they must be too knackered to break into a trot, even for the pure pleasure of doing so. (Photos: A rare sighting of a camel - Ferghana valley, Kyrgyzstan)

A continuous line of snowy peaks delineates the border between Kygyzstan and Tajikistan, a broad grassy plain stretches towards them. The chain is unbroken for many miles, the passes through are limited. Now and again a waterlogged valley cuts through the foothills, only to end at the base of another soaring giant. It proved a splendid backdrop to my departure, I'd love to say I promised to return, to more fully explore the wonderland. The thought is there, and maybe some day I will, but never without my independence. I've sorely missed the bike, meeting other bikers has not been easy, I always feel a copout for having left my bike in Mongolia. It was the right choice though, however many times I pine to be straddled my machine instead of negotiating mountain trails in some clapped out soviet machine, or even a super cruiser, it just isn't the same. I have realised my limitations though, both physical and psychological. For every time I regret not riding particular routes, I come to places I'm glad I don't have to cope with on two wheels. I've realised how vulnerable I feel, how deeply my injuries effect me; it isn't only the physical limitations. I'm not discounting travel by bike, but a fully laden bike for touring isn't what I can cope with, what the alternatives are must be considered. (Photos: Sedimentary layers shaped by erosion - Kyrgyz Autonomous region, China)

Crossing the border was quick and easy, even as a pedestrian. The border guards allocate trucks to carry the foot bound across the 7 km of no man's land. The Chinese are abnormally efficient, the ony delay being completely emptying my pack for inspection. As luck would have it a van had been procured for another couple of tourists, their guide used it to there form Kashgar. Having their own 4x4 meant it was empty for the return trip, of course for a small fee it was mine for the asking. The guy was a gem, a Uigyr from Kashgar with little regard for the occupation of his home by the Han Chinese. The city is teeming with police, special forces and military. People's square has become military square, honest citizens are exempt from walking across it; I tried and was hustled off unceremoniously. Though i didn't notice any Uigyr police I was told they do exist, but they are not issued with side arms; so much for equality eh? (Photos: Uptilted by tectonic pressure - Kyrgyz Autonomous region, China