The Magoe Caves at Dunhuang were nearly left out, and aren't I glad I didn't. Courtesy of a fellow traveller I was awoken at some ungodly hour to get there early, so thanks Shay (no doubt he'll correct the spelling if he links up with this blog). It was a shame that the caves were only open for guided tours, it could have been more of a shame that we joined in with a Chinese tour rather than wait for a foreign language guide. Our only purpose was to see the caves, also known as the caves of a thousand Buddhas, though there is another by that name so they shouldn't be confused. Obviously we didn't understand a single word of the tour, we also forgot our torches so had to make do with the flash round on the guide's torchlight. the imagery was excellent, thousands of metres of frescoes, and iconography of so many Buddhas. But the caves were dark, photography was banned and viewing was strictly controlled, how naff is that? (Photo: Undisturbed Buddhist caves - Dunhuang, Gansu Province)
Considering the average tourist in any country, let alone China, it really isn't bad at all. In fact it's necessary to keep the heritage of countries safe. Flash photography fades frescoes and other such antiquities, of course it shouldn't be allowed with old paintings and statues. Barriers are up to stop people touching anything, and so they should be. When you see the 30m high statue of Buddha, the wonderfully ornate paintwork on his robe, I can't imagine the devastation thousands of hands would have each day if left free to roam. His hems were painted in fine golden Chinese dragons, the edging done in exquisite swirling designs of delicate purple. I agree completely, protect this remarkable heritage, let future generations appreciate the wonders betrothed to us. (Photo: At the Buddhist caves - Dunhuang, Gansu Province)
With my eyes finely tuned to the wonders that surround me, my next leg of the journey brought a lot to look at. Initially I marvelled at the level of cultivation, the orderly vineyards stretching over many acres, the concrete post supporting the aged timbers for the vines to grow up. The Cape Gooseberries growing under the shade of the vines, not an inch was wasted. Maize and sunflowers grew in conjunction with the numerous vines, but in lesser numbers, often the maize would be grown around a field of the gooseberries, whether for shade or or shelter from the wind I don't know; maybe it gave some protection from specific pests. I refuse to believe it was random, the Chinese don't do such things for no reason. And with this in mind I must assume that the marginal areas of desert aren't cultivated because the hassle isn't worth the effort. (Photo: Vine growing method - Dunhuang, Gansu Province)
From the peripheries of Dunguan the countryside changes abruptly from tight packed cultivated land to open desert in the blink of an eye. This is sandy desert, with few undulations and fewer signs flora. Of the fauna you never know, whilst on our night excursion a small rodent was spotted scurrying around the tents. I also saw a squorpion, a very small sand coloured beast. Having come across such things in the Sinai desesrt I knew them to ve poisonous, but that they weren't deadly; being stung is like catching a severe dose of flu for a few days. I wasn't panicing over one squorpion, though it did cause a few worried outbursts.The desert may look vast and lifeless, it rarely is though. (Photo: Crop method - Dunhuang, Gansu Province)
They tend to be large, they are intimidating, they are inhospitable; but for many people they are their lives. However you see them, deserts are seldom the same. And, after a bumpy night's bus ride, I awoke to a completely different desert landscap. This one was much more dynamic, from the roadside to the horizon layer upon layer of shape and colour sizzled under blazing sunshine. We travelled on a road raised off the ancient gritty lake/sea bed. From the flat gravelly bed rose banks of sand, light ochre to brick red, often forming embankments, looking more man made than natural. For me the picture was only complete with the mountains, in staggered formation behind. Always my heart settles when within the grasp of mountain ranges, they make me feel at home, wherever I am. (Photo: Desert scene - Xingjiang Province)
The bus took 30 hrs to reach Urumqi, a journey that was meant top take 24. The views were awesome, I could never tire of them, even if I did feel impatient to meet Steve and Leane again. These are friends from Sri Lanka, we met a few times there; they now teach English in Urumqi, which is very handy for me.
Not only would I have a bit of relaxed space for a few days, I could let down my hair a bit. I erased such thoughts from my mind, sat back and enjoyed the view while it lasted. I had the luxury of being met at the bus station, it took a while before Steve got the correct bus station, but I was fine stood around watching the world go by. Tension between the Uigyers and Han Chinese are a bit high in Xinjiang province, there's been some riots in the last few weeks in Kashgar, not long before in Urumqi. People died, these are real riots, with real bullets fired into the crowd, policement died and so did a score of rioters. These folk weren't looting during the riots, they were fighting for their rights; none of them used it as an excuse to rob and pillage. So faced with the prospect of going to Osh and Kashgar I don't see it as particulary dangerous, ethnic tensions are soaring, the military are present in large numbers; I only have to ensure I don't get caught in the crossfire. Where-as in London I could expect some lowlife opportunist to use the riot as a chance to rob me, I know which I'd rather be in. (Photo: Colours of the desert - Xingjiang Province)
Urumqi impressed me, yes you heard me right, stuck in a huge, noisy and crowded city I enjoyed it.
It's modern, young and vibrant. Huge towers poke into the heavens, wherever you look the sparkle of chrome and glass glints in the sun. I didn't find them ugly, they are in no way uniform; the architecture is bold and inspiring. Smack bang in the middle is the People's park, meeting point and playground for both young and old. Locals flocked there for recreation time, exercise machines, fairground rides and countless stalls to amuse yourself. Various music played in different sections, here some ballroom, there some jazz; wherever music was to be found so would the dancers. Traditional music was played in many locations, and large crowds gathered for a traditional play with gorgeous costumes and quirky action. Of course I couldn't make out what the hell was going on, and that didn't detract from the experience. And when it goes dark the city lights up, video screens 10m or more high keep folk abreast of the best beauty products, or the best insurance deal; this is modern China, if it's worth having it'll let you know, flashing with bright lights and loud speakers. Our first night on the town I hung out the taxi window, like a country hick, oohing and aahing; it might as well have been Vegas for all I cared. (Photo: Ripples and folds in the desert - Xingjiang Province)
For the weekend we took off from the city to Tia' chin, an area to the north. If I thought it was to be a quick trip to a tourist spot, I was sorely mistaken. It took a fair while for the taxi van to pick us up, they wouldn't let us into the nature area when we arrived because it was too late. I think with a van load of determined tourists, especially whie tourists the chips were stacked in our favour. Whether it has any bearing or not one aspect of the situation made me laugh. While the others were at the barrier, pestering the guards to let us in, I took out my camera. Saying to one guy it could either get me in trouble of work in our favour, I went to snap some pictures of the closed gate and guards, with my friends protesting at our exclusion. I only managed to take one picture and the guard suddenly told us to get in the van and carry on. (Photo: Another desert scene - Xinjiang Province, China)
It may have only been for one night, but the spot was gorgeous. Mind you we had a horrendous climb up a treacherously slippery slope of scree. Having a full pack wasn't good for my knees, carrying much weight for more than a short distance isn't good for them. But I made it, and they didn't give me much grief after; not until the next day anyway. It's funny watching guys trying to play Alpha male, the prime time to experience this is on camping trips or at barbeques. Any one would probably do a good job, but they all try to do it their way at the same time, jumping in and changing what's already been done. We got there as it turned dark, we didn't eat until well past mid-night. Steve and me stood and watched the palaver, they all meant well but it often needs one person to co-ordinate the procedes. The only slight hiccup was from myself, finding it too much that someone dug a second firepit, lit another fire so they could do it their way. It was unnecessary and I felt I had to make that clear. (Photo: Wet relief to one of the hottest regions on earth - Xinjiang Province, China)
As a farewell from the city I had a complete stranger see me having difficulty getting a taxi, when they realised I was likely to be late for my bus they drove me there themselves. That touched me, it's how China has treated me. Whilst many others have found it impersonal, the people rude, I've been helped more times than hindered, raised smiles more than scowls. It depends on your own vibe folks, open up and let the world smile with you.
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