Domestic bliss in Paradise

Writing could become a curse if I’m not careful. I’m too analytical, get too involved in the detail. I don’t know how beneficial that is, often my initial assumptions are the one’s that seem to hold true. One of the local chai stall holders was in a mess when I first arrived. One arm was in a sling and her face was battered and badly bruised. My immediate assumption was that she’d been severely beaten, though she dismissed the injuries as the result of a motorbike accident. Over the course of time I’ve got to know her better, though never questioned her claims. I can’t see it myself, fail to see how you could sustain such extensive bruising without the slightest scratch to the surface of the skin, not by falling off a bike. So I’m left with my original impression, that she’s been given a beating. Domestic subjugation is still in the dark ages here, violence in the home is common, or so I’m told. Of course it isn’t something that’s likely to be witnessed, such events generally happen behind closed doors. I keep my eyes peeled now, and find myself noticing more and more women with bruises around the eyes. (Photo: Paradise beach - Maharashtra, India)

I don’t want to jump to the same conclusion every time I see a female with a bruise, but I am aware that domestic violence is a problem here. It isn’t easy to accurately interpret a conversation in a foreign language you don’t speak, but often actions speak louder than words. A group of guys sat at the table next to me in a restaurant, having an animated conversation in Hindi, while necking glasses of whisky. One made the motion of a high-handed slap, followed by an imitation of a whimpering mewl, to an uproar of laughter by the whole group. Another responded in a similar vein, but the noise he imitated was more a sobbing plea. Again it met with a round of approving laughter. Sorry, I can’t see it any other way than making a joke out of violence and the distress of their victims. The fact that the tone of the noises they imitated were distinctly female, leaves me in no doubt what they made fun of. (Photo: What's on the menu today? - Maharashtra, India)

It turns my stomach, not just the institutionalised violence but treating it as a joking matter. The casual cruelty to animals is bad enough, but vicious outbreaks on totally innocent creatures are too much. No-one bats an eyelid when someone lays the boot into a dog wandering down the road. It will be for no other reason than it walked too close, the guy just being in a crap mood and wanting to vent his anger. I’ve always liked Asia for the widespread absence of violent crime, it now dawns on me that it’s only due to me not being in one of the target groups. There’s plenty of aggression to be seen when you’ve a mind, the quick outbreaks I’ve witnessed have been accompanied with looks of seething hatred for the victim. I stopped a guy hurling stones at a dog, which was nowhere near him, no-one else was going to. But the look on his face said it all, he really wanted to hurt that animal.(Photo: Beach rides - Paradise beach, Maharashtra)

It leaves me in a better head-state when I focus on the delightful aspects of being in Paradise. Watching the dolphins patrol the bay in the quiet lull of early morning. Or noticing the fine control the eagles get by the slightest twitch of their tail feathers, they use their wings for lift, their tails for turning. There are dozens of them too, circling wherever there might be the chance of any scrap to eat. I refer to them as eagle though am unsure of what defines a hawk and what an eagle. They act as scavengers mainly, combing the shoreline for whatever the tide serves for lunch. I’ve encountered more sea snakes stranded above the waterline, managing to rescue a cute little creature who was much too lively to manhandle. The poor thing struggled valiantly against the incoming tide, but I finally coaxed it beyond the thin line of breaking surf. The bigger ones are always by the fishing boats, so I think it’s safe to assume they’re a by-product of the day’s catch. The fishermen can’t be bothered, but the birds waste no time in devouring them. (Photo: In the morning haze - Paradise beach, Maharashtra)

There are only eight weeks before my return, and my mind ponders which bike to buy when I get back. I even contemplated a car, but you know me, I can’t comprehend not having a bike to ride. So if anyone has any suggestions, or something decent on offer, let me know.