A bid for freedom

Over the years I’ve been lucky enough to swim and dive with turtles. I’ve watched them emerge from the surf and haul themselves laboriously up the beach and make an aborted attempt at nest building amongst building rubble. In Java I got to witness them laying their eggs, and the subsequent collection and hatching of the eggs. I’ve even handled baby turtles. But for the first time I actually got to see a nest of hatchlings being released. It might be seen as a shame I couldn’t see them breaking out their shells, but in truth that happens beneath the surface of the sand. This nest was enclosed a few weeks ago when the turtle came and laid her eggs, on the full moon. Tides were high and the effort needed to clamber up the beach was minimalized. Laying and hatching coincide with the moon cycles, making the most of the tides and available light. Now on the new moon, spring tides again, the hatchlings make their break for freedom in the dark of night. (Photo: Newly hatched - Paradise Beach, Maharashtra)

Except these one’s were given a helping hand, not left entirely to the devices of nature itself. There isn’t the problem of eggs being poached here, so they don’t collect the eggs and hatch them in controlled environments. Known turtle beaches are checked around the full moon, any nests have protective fences hastily erected around them. When it’s hatching time the nest is surrounded by a wickerwork barrier, a basket with the bottom cut out, so the hatchlings can get out the sand but go no further. The following morning they then release them at the water’s edge, being at hand to protect their escape. Of course once they’re in the water mankind’s ability to help them further lay in our treatment of the marine environment rather than individual creatures. I’m in two minds about interfering with nature, I do think we should be guardians and try and neutralise the detrimental effects humanity has had on the natural world, but I don’t think we should be playing god. (Photo: Turtle race across the sand - Paradise Beach, Maharashtra)

The way they do things here means minimal interference, which I’m all in favour of. There is no need to invest in hatcheries and staff to run them, financing can concentrate on field staff. Of course to leave eggs in situ relies on them being safe where they are. In Java they weren’t, wild pigs, dogs and poachers all extracted a heavy toll. There were dozens of nests, the beach was littered with them, and the vast majority had been desecrated. So eggs were taken, hatched in an artificial environment, grown on for a brief spell then released into the water on the correct phase of the moon. I always wondered whether that extent of interference might have a detrimental effect. At what stage does a newly hatched turtle imprint its geographic location, plot its position on its global map so it can find its way back? Personally I don’t think that happens in a laboratory building, or being carried in a container from the hatchery to the water’s edge. So unless a turtle’s imprinting happens once in the water, those Javan turtles are going to find it mighty hard to find their way home.(Photo: The final furlong - Paradise Beach, Maharashtra)

You can’t help but feel sorry for the tiny hatchlings being cast into an ocean void, so small, so helpless. At least they’ve been given a better chance of survival. After a frantic dash towards the water they get hit by the first surge of water and tumble back up the beach, to be deposited again metres from the water’s edge. It can happen repeatedly, yet still they struggle on valiantly against all odds. The presence of an audience kept the carrion eaters at bay, the occasional stray could also be put to rights by being placed closer to the water. Why they deposit them ten metres from the sea is debatable. Personally I think it’s better to do as naturally as possible, but suspect it was to put on a better show for spectators. Which is fine, some interaction with nature is good for people. At least they weren’t cashing in on the situation. (Photo: Waterborne at last - Paradise Beach, Maharashtra)

And that’s been the highlight of my last fortnight really, life has plodded on nicely here. I’m still taking the path of least resistance, by staying put. Not wanting the upheaval of moving on is one aspect of it, not being able to decide where I might go is another. I do have ideas but none appeal so much I can’t resist, what is foremost in my mind is to crack on with my book. Which is coming on, with only the occasional interference for social intercourse. I have to back pedal a touch, take the sting out of my words about Russian tourists. En masse they do leave a lot to be desired, but some are more than happy to communicate once the barriers are down. So many criticise their own countrymen, agreeing they’re not the friendliest of people to outsiders. Isn’t that the case though, especially in areas of mass tourism, the more discerning often heavily condemn the average tourist. As I state quite clearly most the time, wherever you go there are good and bad. So in effect it’s our own responsibility to reach out for the good when the opportunity arises. Though I must admit, my goals are to write, not get hammered at every available opportunity. (Photo: A change from turtle pictures - Paradise Beach, Maharashtra)