Cambodian delights

We hit Cambodia with a great sense of elation, mainly due to sailing through the border with nary a comment about our bikes. We’d expected some difficulty, James remained convinced a simple bribe would suffice to get us through, but I held a more pessimistic view. Tales of abandoning motorcycles on the border were many, a sketchy few claimed there weren’t any problems. Uncertainty reigned, we hesitantly approached the border and had severe doubts as to what was happening when commanded to leave our bikes well away from the security post. We need not have worried, no-one mentioned our bikes. Once procuring an exit stamp we merely had to push them through the 100 metres of border control and then rode them up to the Cambodian side. An hour saw us through both sides of the border, and away we went all the way to the casino. Not to gamble, but to exchange the last of our Dong. (Photo: Boat life - Sihanouk Ville port, Cambodia)

An instant change in scenery occurred, which seems to be a familiar situation when crossing many borders. On our approach there had been loads of crops, neat patches of paddy, and numerous racks drying off palm fronds for roofing materials. Cambodian was a rough and ready scrubland in comparison, but it didn’t last long. Pretty soon vast swathes of paddy filled the entire horizon; these weren’t the small muddy beds separated by earthen banks, one enormous area of constant paddy dominated the area. Until reaching the flood plains connecting with the Mekong it was simply unbroken paddy with smalls copses of woodland dotted here and there. Even after the reaching the flood plains there was still plenty of rice paddy, anywhere that wasn’t completely inundated with water was given over to growing rice. Where there was water that is where the people live, whole families in tiny thatched shacks on surprisingly small rickety vessels. The main commercial catch is shrimp or prawns, but they sell anything they can catch, snails, frogs, water snakes, eels and even a small amount of fish. (Photo: Paradise lost - Initial view of Kaoh S'dach Island, Cambodia)

House styles were different too, being mainly of wooden construction on stilts, with slightly more decorative paneling on the eaves and apex of the roof. Up curved protrusions sprout from the gable ends, like buffalo horns I believe. Older places are made exclusively with thatched roofs, often these older houses stand side by side with newer, more substantial, houses with wooden tiled roofs. It seemed as if the old places were still in use for some purpose of another, it’s quite likely to be for other family members, expansion to cater for an ever increasing extended family. Though elders are still revered here the importance of the extended family is diminishing. At 75yrs old Ohm lives alone as one of only ten inhabitants of Kaoh Totang, her two sons have both moved away to the big city. Beyond fishing there is little to do in these parts, making money and participating in a modern world is as important for many islanders as it is for western folks. As always the bright city lights are a massive pull for youngsters, I guess it’s just as well they number of kids on the islands far outweighs the adult population. (Photo: Ohm's friend, helping harvest grass for roofing material - Kaoh Totang, Cambodia)

Phnom Penh, sin city, the highest concentration of foreigners I’ve mixed with since Luang Prabang. Hanoi may have had more but I didn’t stay within the main tourist enclave, preferring a small hotel tucked well away from most. We took a similar approach to accommodation when reaching the capital of Cambodia, taking individual rooms in a fairly plush hotel. We were the only western folks there, but within walking distance of the river area where most tourists hang out. If anyone thought this country was old worldy, with traditional values and disdain for the wanton nature of foreigners, forget it. The rest of the country is certainly very much like that, but not the capital. Foreign bars abound, scantily clad girls hustle for your custom as you walk past the bars. As you enter such places you’re surrounded by girls, it’s their job to escort you to a seat, to entertain you and keep you there as long as possible. They aren’t prostitutes, though I understand private agreements can be made, many are students supporting their studies. Apparently they are actually well paid, though I found the whole situation distasteful they didn’t waste time hassling you if you showed no interest. (Photo: Beach at Nomads Guesthouse - Kaoh Totang, Cambodia)

But the big city was nothing more than a rest stop, we were both fairly tired. The ride through Vietnam had been almost constant riding in some awful conditions, we have a full month in which to enjoy Cambodia and neither of us were in any hurry. James has friends setting up a dive centre in what’s renowned to be a beautiful part of the coast near Kaoh Kong. I had thought of going my own way from Phnom Penh, but the thought of a deserted island to stay on was too much to resist. I wanted my own space, so a hut on the beach to myself sounded perfect. Having a travel buddy has proved to be fun, this has happened rarely in my life and never to this extent; it’s been about six weeks in each other’s company now. We seem to compliment each other, and James does a good job at recognizing the times I’m getting het up with someone and quickly moves in the dissolve the situation. I do seem to have got a bit tetchy under the influence of alcohol recently, more than I’m used to so I need to be careful. (Photo: View from beach- Kaoh Totang, Cambodia)

Nights drinking till dawn aren’t the best solution to taking care, but they happen at times. You only have one life, why not enjoy it; so if having a drink is proving fun, why not? Of course the flip side is the abysmal hangover the next day, which is how we departed Phnom Penh. I’d love to say the scenery was gorgeous, which much of it was, but I was oblivious. The roads were straight, the going was good; even in our delicate state we went twice as far as we imagined that day. That was largely due to the realization that an absence of guesthouses forced the issue, we saw none after the towns immediately surrounding to the capital. Sihanouk Ville was reached just before dark, giving us time to contact the dive centre on Kaoh Totang. Unfortunately the only guesthouse was closed for another two weeks, in effect it made the whole reason for me coming this way a waste of time. But if you trust in events they have a surprising way of working out. (Photo: A select few of the hoards of kids on the island - Kaoh S'dach, Cambodia)

Miraculously James’ friend Sarah’s boyfriend happened to be in town that night. It was a tenuous link, but we had an escort to take us over to the Island the following day. Without the knowledge of the guesthouse owners we arrived and stayed on the Totang for three days, helping out during the days with the preparations for the start of the season on 1st December. I guess that saved the day, especially for me. Feeling a little like a hanger-on I felt more obliged to pitch in, so I did, for up to 6 hours some days. The atmosphere on the island was great, I constantly lost myself in a reverie of sight and sound; staring across the empty sea with nothing but the sound of lapping waves and cicadas. My accommodation was nothing more than a thin mattress on the dive shack floor, but it sufficed, I slept well. And in this manner a week flew by, a bit of work, some snorkeling, good food and good company.(Photo: Sunset from my guesthouse - Kaoh S'dach, Cambodia)

All good things come to an end though, the dive centre was in the process of moving, so it was time for me to vacate the premises too. Kaoh S’dach still isn’t a large island, there’s only one single track road the length of it. Most houses are built over the water, connected by dangerous walkways of loose, rotten planking. It can be precarious negotiating them in daylight, it’s damned dangerous in the dark or burdened with baggage. But on these rickety structures their whole world hinges. Sanitation is practical under the circumstances, wooden sheds with holes over the open seawater. It doesn’t inspire me to swim off the dock, though one poor guy seems to have the dubious job of donning snorkel and mask whenever there is any underwater work to be done. Chickens are raised without setting foot on dry land, being fed scraps of compostable material but existing almost exclusively on grain. There’s also a ready supply of fighting cocks, forever being groomed lovingly by their owners. I’ve not heard of an actual fight but the intention is obviously there. (Photo: Quarrying limestone blocks- Kaoh S'dach, Cambodia)

The kids are pure magic though, a chorus of “Hello, what’s your name?” follows you everywhere. A hoard of them will grasp both your hands, pumping furiously, “hello, hello, hello, what’s your name?” It doesn’t seem to matter with most what you reply, they’ll only laugh and repeat the phrase again and again. The only thing that bugs me is the complete lack of dental health, the majority of them have more rotten stumps than teeth, they’re going to be the first toothless generation. Fizzy drinks and sweets must be the culprits; I can’t imagine they’ve been available for too many years here, it’s a 4 hour boat trip from the mainland. OK, some adults teeth leave a lot to be desired, but they’re the minority. With kids it’s the norm, I can’t believe this isn’t recognised as an issue with the islanders. Though the level of motivation is very low among the local populace, for many it’s an effort to prise themselves out their hammocks to serve customers in their shops. Much easier is to get kids to do all the work, which is very common also. (Photo: Over the moon, King Hunter - Kaoh S'dach, Cambodia)

Cambodia is a wonderful place to experience. The people are friendly and helpful, they don't tend to over charge because you're a foreigner, maybe with the exception of boat captains. Food from the markets is exceptional, simple, tasty and cheap. Transport seems a bit hit or miss but this adds to the experience, riding through the country has posed no problems. Accommodation is cheaper than in Vietnam, and of a reasonable quality. Personally I'd rate it alongside Laos, which I adored.